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Happy Wine Wednesday!

And Happy Almost Rosé Day! We’ll be diving into the various styles of rosé (including ones that could convert rosé haters), then chatting with sommelier Ashlee Cuneo, the general manager at Miraflores Winery in El Dorado, California. 

So pour yourself a glass and let’s get our wine nerd on!

Rosé All Day
From Fruity to Savory to Basically Red

Crisp. Fruity. Floral. Refreshing.

There’s a reason why so many of us love to rosé all day! With a delightful pink hue, these wines were practically made for pool parties and watching Ryan Gosling and Margot Robbie in their new Barbie movie (side note: did you know that they used so much pink paint for the set that it caused a shortage?!).

To make sure you’re properly prepared for National Rosé Day this coming Saturday, June 10th, let’s dive into how exactly rosé is made, the different styles and flavors, and what food to pair with each one.

First, the winemaking. 

As most of you know, the color in red wine comes from the contact that the grape juice has with the grape skins during the fermentation process. White wines don’t get any skin contact which is why they don’t get any color, even if it’s a white wine made from a red grape like some Champagnes!

The pink color in rosé wines comes from just a little bit of contact with the skin. The winemaker chooses how long to keep the skins in contact with the juice (usually between 4 - 12 hours) before filtering the juice off of the skins. The longer the juice stays in contact with the skins, the darker pink it will be. 

This is the most common way of making rosés, but there is another method that winemakers use.

Enter: Saignée

Pronounced “sun-yay” and meaning “to bleed” in French, this is a less common method that comes from making red wine. As the name suggests, it involves “bleeding off” a portion of red wine juice early on in the fermentation process (2 hours - 2 days) in order to increase the concentration of the red wine being made. Then, this byproduct continues to ferment on its own without the skin or seeds which stay with the original red wine juice. Some producers also age these wines in oak for even more intense flavors.

Saignée wines are typically bolder and darker than other rosés, so this could be something to try if you don’t usually like rosés! Part of the difference in flavor and body of Saignée wines comes from the fact that these grapes are picked at the perfect time for making red wine, while grapes specifically for rosé are harvested a little earlier. This results in the riper fruit flavors and stronger body.

Some examples to try are cabernet sauvignon and Chinon Saignées.

You can find cabernet sauvignon saignées from Napa Valley, which are much darker in color (like a reddish pink) and are more similar in body to red wine. Chinon Saignées from the Loire Valley in France are made from cabernet franc and are more medium-bodied than the light-bodied rosés typically found there.

Now back to our non-Saignée rosés.

So which is the right rosé for you?

Each varietal and winemaking style can make a big difference, so let’s first start by differentiating them by flavor profile:

• Fruity: Sangiovese and grenache rosés can have a copper or ruby hue to them and tend to be very fruity and acidic. These will taste great with some Mediterranean food! Pinot noirs make a more delicately fruity rosé that could be enjoyed with some goat cheese, crab legs, or a raw seafood platter by the beach.

• Savory: Tempranillo, syrah, and cabernet sauvignon create more savory rosés. A syrah or cabernet sauvignon rosé from an American producer will typically be made with the Saignée Method and be bolder. These would be great for a pepperoni pizza night or some chili! The tempranillo rosé from Spain will be savory with herbal notes and is going to taste delicious with some tacos.

• Fruity, Floral, Smoky: Mourvédre rosés often have a more coral hue and are fuller-bodied than most other rosés. These wines are both fruity and floral, and can sometimes have notes of dried herbs and smoke! This fuller bodied rosé will pair perfectly with grilled lamb at a Mediterranean dinner party.

• Sweet: Rosé (aka white) zinfandel actually accounts for 85% of zinfandel production in the United States and is one of most sold rosés here. These are often deliberately made to be off-dry (slightly sweet), and would go great with some spicy Thai food.

And now onto the Queen of Rosé: Provence, France. 

My experience working in a Beverly Hills wine store taught me that the most popular rosés for drinking and gifting come from Provence. Those Whispering Angels and Miravals flew off the shelves all summer!

Grenache, cinsault, syrah, and mourvédre are used to create these popular, pale pink wines. Fruity and lean, these rosés are great to sip on their own or can be enjoyed with almost any dish. I highly recommend pairing these crisp, dry rosés with a burger or (when it’s not so hot outside) with bouillabaisse – a traditional fish stew from Provence with saffron and dried orange peel. Delicious. 

Lastly, the most savory, rich, and un-rosé-like rosé is Tavel Rosé from France’s Côtes du Rhône. Fun fact: It is apparently the favorite rosé of Ernest Hemingway!

Primarily made with grenache and cinsault (although nine varietals are allowed in the blend), these salmon-pink wines are basically like red wine…minus the red. Unlike most other rosés, Taval can handle some aging and will become richer and get more nutty notes over time. If you need a rosé for someone who hates rosés, pour them a glass of this and pair it with some BBQ. 

Use National Rosé Day as an excuse to grab your favorite rosés and a new one to try! It’ll make for the perfect rosé all day party day.

Ashlee Cuneo
Sommelier and General Manager at Miraflores Winery

This interview has been edited for clarity.

Merobebe

What's your go-to bottle of wine when you want to treat yourself?

Ashlee Cuneo

Bubbles are always my go-to! My absolute favorite California sparkling is Schramsberg Brut Rose, which I love for any occasion.

Merobebe

If you could have any job in the wine industry besides your current one, what would it be?

Ashlee Cuneo

I love spending time in our production facility with our amazing winemaking team and have often thought about how fun it would be to further explore the “behind the scenes” side of winemaking. The idea of helping to create something like a beautiful bottle of wine is intriguing and so different from any area of the wine industry I’ve worked in before.

Merobebe

What's your favorite wine-themed movie or book?

Ashlee Cuneo

I would have to say Bottle Shock for both.

Merobebe

How has growing up in Santa Rosa shaped your life and journey into working with wine? Did you always know that you'd end up in the wine industry?

Ashlee Cuneo

Growing up in Santa Rosa definitely shaped my life when it comes to working in the wine industry – though while I was growing up, this industry was the furthest thing from my mind. Surprisingly, I had always seen myself as a writer for a magazine in New York City!

I always had an appreciation for wine, though, thanks to both my parents and grandparents. From a young age, there would always be conversation at the dinner table about wine in some shape or form. My dad and my grandparents would discuss “the minerality” of a pinot grigio they once had with an amazing Italian dinner or talk about being on the hunt for that one perfectly rich and powerful Napa cabernet sauvignon (that also wouldn’t break the bank!).

My grandmother to this day loves Russian River chardonnays, which I inherited from her. I always knew that we lived in a special place, even as a little kid. Whenever we would leave town and drive back home through the Valley of the Moon (in between Sonoma and Kenwood), I would feel a huge sense of “ahhh, I’m so happy we’re home.” To this day, I still feel that comfortable familiarity when I drive through that area, which I still consider to be the most beautiful vineyard scenery in Sonoma County.

Merobebe

You’ve said that you believe wine has a "soul." What do you mean?

Ashlee Cuneo

I consider wine to be a living and breathing entity, even after the grapes have been plucked from the living vine. From grape to bottle, wine expresses itself almost as a human being does. It’s dynamic like a person and, depending on its age, will show itself in different ways. Like people, it’s important to take the time to get to know each wine to appreciate all of the facets and individuality it has.

Merobebe

What is involved with being a GM for a winery, and what are some unique aspects of working at Miraflores?

Ashlee Cuneo

Being a GM is being the wearer of many hats: gardener, HR manager, wine writer, marketing coordinator, equipment management, operations coordinator, and Sommelier all in one. One of the aspects I love about working at Miraflores is that I have the opportunity of being involved in our blending sessions alongside Victor Alvarez (our winery owner) and winemaking team before the wines go into bottles. This job is never boring and constantly keeps me on my toes!

Merobebe

You've worked in a variety of roles in the industry, including wine director at a Michelin-star restaurant to sales and distribution. How has your experience in these different roles prepared you to work as a GM for a winery?

Ashlee Cuneo

When I first started working at Miraflores, my experience as a Sommelier really helped me in many ways, especially with the food and wine pairing lunches that Miraflores offers every summer. I decided that I would be the one to pair each of our wines with the chefs’ menus rather than hiring Sommeliers the way that we used to. This wasn’t because it’s more cost effective, but because I really enjoy pairing food with wine. It is one of my favorite things about working at this winery. We create so many food-friendly wines which is an absolute dream.

My sales experience comes into play with guiding our tasting room staff when selling wine to customers, as well as figuring out pricing for our wholesale markets and helping advise local restaurants on the best wine for their menus.

Merobebe

What are some unique food and wine pairings you've done for the Miraflores summer lunches?

Ashlee Cuneo

One of the most unique and memorable food and wine pairings I have ever done was actually not at Miraflores but at Chez TJ restaurant, in Mountain View, CA. I paired a cheese plate, which had a wide array of different types of cheese, with a dry Tokaji, also known as Furmint. This particular wine was incredibly earthy, with notes of dusty mushroom and cheese rind which went absolutely perfectly with the cheese plate. It was not a wine that I would necessarily recommend to enjoy on its own, but it was one of the most unforgettable wine pairings I’ve ever done.

For Miraflores’ Pairings lunches, I would say that the most unique wine pairings happen when I use the off-dry Estate Muscat Canelli. Most would assume that Muscat Canelli is an overly sweet wine — not really a wine to be taken seriously but I love using it with a wide array of cuisine because it is such a chameleon when it is paired. The nose is so heady and floral that it almost comes off as perfume-esque in the glass but on the palate, the finish is almost completely dry. It’s definitely a surprising wine. I love pairing this wine with Asian and Indian cuisine, especially dishes with big herbaceous notes and aromatics like lemongrass, cilantro, curry, and basil. It’s also incredible with tropical fruit dishes and fruit salads. For example, I paired this wine with Thai Coconut Chicken Soup and it was incredible together!

Merobebe

What's your general approach to food and wine pairing? Any tips or guidelines you can share with  us?

Ashlee Cuneo

My most general approach to wine and food pairing is either comparing or contrasting the flavor of the wine to the flavor of the food. For example, if I was to pair a rich pasta dish like linguini and clams with a lemon-butter white wine sauce then I can go two directions: either pair it with a light, crisp wine like a pinot grigio or with a richer style of wine to match the dish, such as a lightly oaked chardonnay. Both wines go nicely with the dish but it depends on many factors: the guest’s preferences, what other dishes they might be enjoying with the pasta, what course the pasta is at within the meal, etc.

Merobebe

What are some challenges you've faced as a woman in the male-dominated world of wine?

Ashlee Cuneo

I’ve been lucky to have several incredible women, as well as men, as mentors in this industry. Breaking into the wine world, especially at a Michelin starred restaurant in the San Francisco Bay Area is a daunting task and thankfully I’ve had excellent guidance along the way and have not had to face too many challenges that specifically relate to being a woman in this industry. 

But I do believe there is a great deal of ego and sometimes attitude involved with the wine industry in general, which is very apparent when starting out. Navigating this was more challenging than anything else.

Merobebe

And last but not least...what do you love most about wine? Drinking, working, any and all of it!

Ashlee Cuneo

I truly love everything about wine. It’s easy for me to enjoy as a way to unwind and relax, but also in a more structured, professional setting. I would say the most fascinating part of wine for me is to discover the way a region’s terroir affects the flavor profile of each vintage. Before I take that first sip of a wine that I am tasting for the first time, a little feeling of excitement always comes across me that I don’t think will ever go away.

Get a wine-related movie or book pairing for your weekend.

Today’s pairing is Bottle Shock, starring Alan Rickman, Chris Pine, and Bill Pullman. 

This 2008 dramedy is based on the true story of the time a California wine infamously defeated French wine in a blind taste test during a wine competition in 1976, putting Napa on the map.

Grab some Napa cabs, popcorn, and friends and get ready for some fantastic comedic moments!

Watch the trailer here.

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Have a wine-derful week, enjoy your rosés, and see you next Wednesday!

Cheers,

Megumi

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