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Tango, the Andes, and Malbec: Welcome to Mendoza

Tango, the Andes, and Malbec: Welcome to Mendoza

April 26, 2023

Happy Wine Wednesday!

Today, we’re diving into Argentina’s largest wine region, Mendoza, and chatting with wine educator and owner of The Wino Shop, Desiree Harris-Brown. So pour yourself a glass and let’s get our wine nerd on!

Mendoza, Argentina
Sunlight, Elevation, and Malbec

Come with me to the land of Tango, stunning landscapes, and most importantly, wine: Argentina.

Located towards the southernmost tip of South America next to Chile, Argentina is the fifth largest wine producing country in the world. They’re also the seventh biggest lovers of wine, drinking more than twice as much wine as Americans! However, even though Argentinians have been drinking wine for decades, it wasn’t until recently that Argentina became known for the quality of their wines.

Without going too deep into the history of the country, political instability and economic depression (including a time where inflation soared over 1,000%!) came to an end about 20 years ago, allowing for a more business-friendly environment with new opportunities. In addition, Argentinian wineries watched neighboring Chile reinvent their wine industry throughout the 90’s, producing higher quality wines and exporting them at higher prices to countries like the U.S.

Enter Nicolás Catena. He grew up in a winemaking family from Argentina, graduated with a PhD in international economics from Columbia University, then became a visiting professor at UC Berkeley. While in northern California, he developed a friendship with Robert Mondavi and learned more about winemaking in Napa and Sonoma. When he returned to Argentina to take over his family’s business, he reinvented the winery and, by the late 90’s, Catena Zapata (a combination of his parents’ surnames) was one of the most successful wineries in the country. The rest of Argentine wine followed suit quickly and by 2010, Argentina was exporting more wine than Chile.

Today, Argentina wines are world-renowned.

There are currently seven wine provinces in Argentina with most (except for those in Patagonia) being dry and desertlike with tons of sunlight and very little rainfall, although temperatures are pretty mild due to the high elevation. This combination of immense sunlight without the immense heat creates a unique environment for grape ripening and photosynthesis, and the dry air means little disease and need of preventative chemicals.

In this issue, we’re focusing on the Mendoza region.

Mendoza, founded in 1561, is the name of both the capital city and the country’s largest wine province. While the region is about the size of New York State, only about 5% of the region is actually planted with grape vines. However, about 1,000 of the nearly 1,400 wineries in Argentina are located in Mendoza. Fun fact: The city of Mendoza has been named one of the great wine capitals in the world!

Located west of Buenos Aires, the vineyards are some of the highest elevated in the country, framed by the snowcapped Andes in the west, and extremely dry and sunny, seeing over 300 days of sunlight each year. More than 60% of the wine produced here is red, and there is more malbec planted here than anywhere else in the world! The Andes Mountains play an important role in wine production here, stopping the wet Pacific Ocean weather from the highlands to create one of the sunniest and driest wine-growing regions in the world while the snowmelt irrigates the vineyards. In addition to malbec, you’ll also find cabernet sauvignon blanc, syrah, and bonarda (also known as charbono). In some of the higher elevation (and therefore cooler) sub-regions, you might also find chardonnay, sauvignon blanc, and pinot noir.

Speaking of subregions:

There are three main wine growing regions within Mendoza: the central, south, and Uco Valley regions. Each of these also have their own subregions (sub-sub-region?). A couple subregions to know include Maipú and Luján de Cuyo, both in the central region. These have some of the highest elevations, resulting in higher acidity wines which adds both freshness and age-ability. San Rafael (in the south) and Santa Rosa (in the center) are other subregions that have lots of old vines that offer more concentrated wines at a terrific value.

Let’s dig a little deeper into some of these subregions.

Maipú: The most historic wine region located just south of Mendoza city. Most of the malbecs from this region have red fruit flavors (like red plum, cherry, and pomegranate) with a touch of sweet cedar and tobacco. Well known producers include Bodegas Lopez, Bodegas Toso, and Trapiche
Luján de Cuyo: You’ll find some glamorous boutique hotels and modern wineries here. You can definitely find more expensive, higher-end wine here, but these wineries also make great value-driven wines as well. The malbecs here tend to have more black fruit taste (like blackberry, plum, or black cherry) with spice notes and a graphite or dusty finish. Producers include the previously mentioned Catena Zapata.
Valle de Uco (Uco Valley): With the highest elevation, these wines are known for their elegance, savory and black fruit flavors, and aging potential. Several smaller wine regions here include Vista Flores, Tupungato, and Tunuyán. Producers include many from all over the world, including Clos de los Siete, Domaine Bousquet, Bodega Lurton, and Altos Los Hormigas
San Rafael: Many of the limited number of wineries here were started by Italian immigrants in the early 1900s. You’ll find high-quality malbecs and cabernet sauvignon with roasted red fruit flavors and a savory herbal finish for a great value!

A couple of final tips:

Any wine that lists a single varietal must contain at least 85% of that variety, and wines labeled “Reserva” must be aged for at least 12 months for red or 6 months for white and rosé wines.

I hope you’re feeling inspired to pick out an Argentinian malbec on your next wine store visit!

Desiree Harris-Brown
Wine Educator & Founder of The Wino Shop

This interview has been edited for clarity.

Merobebe

To start things off…If you could have any superpower related to wine, what would it be?

Desiree Harris-Brown

My superpower would be to make any wine that I want appear in front of me with the snap of a finger. DRC anyone?

(Note: Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, or DRC, is an estate in Burgundy, France that has been producing wine since 1232. It’s also one of the world’s most expensive wines. According to Town & Country, the average cost of these wines is $19,702 and a bottle has even been sold for over half a million dollars. Casual.)

Merobebe

If you could have dinner with any wine industry figure, who would it be?

Desiree Harris-Brown

I would have dinner with Madame Clicquot Ponsardin. She was widowed at 27 and took over her husband’s business. I’d love to hear her perspective on what it was like at that time being a woman in wine.

Merobebe

And if you could have any celebrity as a personal sommelier, who would it be?

Desiree Harris-Brown

Andre Mack! He makes great wines, and knows a ton about wine, but is so down-to-earth and approachable. That is my style.

Merobebe

How did you become interested in wine, and what inspired you to pursue a career as a wine educator and start The Wino Shop?

Desiree Harris-Brown

I started working in the wine industry almost by accident. I was working a corporate job after graduating from college, and I was really unfulfilled in my career. I picked up a part-time job doing tastings at local liquor stores and grocery stores, and this piqued my interest in wine. People were asking me questions about wine, and I was doing research. I discovered WSET courses and decided to take them and eventually make the leap into the wine industry.

I've worked in the wine industry now for several years in a few different capacities. I was a wine sales rep selling wine in Maryland and DC, and I was also a wine ambassador for Pernod Ricard Winemakers. In 2020, I launched The Wino Shop, which I had been working on for a long time. Having extra time during the pandemic and the racial awakening in the country inspired me to launch it with my best-selling tee, The Future of Wine Tees.

Merobebe

What's the wine scene like in Maryland and DC?

Desiree Harris-Brown

I recently moved back to Maryland in July of last year after living in Los Angeles. It has been an incredible experience rediscovering my home state and all it has to offer. One of the things I've been most impressed by is the food and wine scene in the DMV (DC, Maryland, and Virginia) area.

There are so many amazing restaurants and wine bars to choose from in the DMV. One of my recent favorites is Maydan, a DC restaurant that explores the cuisines of the Middle East, Africa, and the Mediterranean. Not only is the food delicious, but they also have a phenomenal beverage program that includes a range of creative cocktails, beer, and wine.

Maryland and Virginia are home to hundreds of wineries, each with their own unique style and character. I've had the chance to visit several wineries over the past year, and it's been a wonderful way to connect with the local community.

Overall, I would say that the food and wine scene in the DMV is really growing and evolving. There are so many exciting new restaurants and bars popping up all the time, as well as established institutions that continue to thrive. Whether you're a foodie, a wine lover, or just someone who enjoys trying new things, the DMV has something for everyone. I feel incredibly lucky to be living in such a vibrant and dynamic region, and I can't wait to see what the future holds.

Merobebe

You mention your store is for "the modern wino." In your experience, how have you seen wine consumers evolve, and what can the wine industry do to continue evolving with them?

Desiree Harris-Brown

This question is complex because I believe that people of color and minorities have always really loved and enjoyed wine. But historically, I have been pigeonholed into certain styles of wine and left out of the conversation about wine appreciation and marketing.

The industry is evolving to give people of color space in the broader wine industry, and it's great to see. We have a long way to go, but we now see a focus on women winemakers, Black-owned brands emerging, and people of color being seen in marketing and conversations about wine.

Merobebe

What styles of wine were you pigeonholed into?

Desiree Harris-Brown

There is a common misconception, or even a microaggression, that people of color only drink sweet or cheap wine. Through my experiences working in the wine industry and as a consumer, I have definitely felt this stereotype applied to me. People assume that I don't know much about wine or that I only like a certain type of wine based on my race.

This stereotype is not only untrue but also damaging. It perpetuates the idea that people of color don't have sophisticated palates or don't appreciate high-quality wine. It's important to recognize that taste is subjective and personal, regardless of one's race or ethnicity.

As someone who loves wine and has spent years studying it, I have developed a diverse palate and enjoy a range of wines from sweet to dry, cheap to expensive. I don't want to be limited by preconceived notions of what I should or should not like based on my race.

It's time to break down these stereotypes and encourage more diversity and inclusivity in the wine industry. Wine is for everyone, and it's important to create an environment where all wine enthusiasts feel welcome and valued regardless of their background.

Merobebe

What other challenges have you faced as a Black woman in the white male-dominated field of wine?

Desiree Harris-Brown

Being a young Black woman working in the wine industry, the automatic assumption is that I don't know much about wine. People are surprised by my level of knowledge, and a lot of that may be due to my age, but it also could be due to my race. It is disheartening to get that response but I always say that I am armed with knowledge. I study wine so that I am confident and can prove the naysayers wrong.

Merobebe

What are some tips you have for a wine enthusiast who wants to expand and refine their palate?

Desiree Harris-Brown

One of the best ways to learn about wine and find the wines you like is to taste. Don’t just stick to the same wine every time, but try wines outside your comfort zone. It's also helpful to develop a basic level of wine knowledge and vocabulary so that you can articulate the characteristics of wine that you like and those that you don't. This way, you can find other wines that have the characteristics that you like, such as low tannin or high acid.

Another great way to learn about wine is to travel. If you are able to take a wine trip to a region, it can be an amazing experience. All 50 states in the US produce wine, so you can absolutely find a local winery to visit.

I have a shirt in the shop that says "trust your palate," and I live by it. Don’t be swayed by wine scores or wine professionals who tell you what you should be drinking. While those can be useful tools, you should always trust your palate and drink what you like.

Merobebe

You've traveled a lot within the U.S. and internationally! If you had to recommend one domestic and one international wine trip, what would they be?

Desiree Harris-Brown

The Finger Lakes is such a hidden gem (I even feature it on my Hidden Gems Wine Region Tee in the shop). The region is known for its Riesling, but there are plenty of other varietals to explore. Beyond the wine, it's great for outdoor enthusiasts and foodies alike.

I just got back from a trip to Chile and Argentina, and WOW. The neighboring countries offer diverse wines, amazing food, and spectacular views!

I absolutely love traveling to Argentina, and during my last visit, I had the opportunity to explore Catena wines in depth. I am a long-time fan of the brand, so visiting was a dream come true.

As a family-owned brand, Catena's history and lineage are woven throughout their business. From the names of their vineyards and wines to their newest restaurant on the property, Angelica, named after an important family member, it's clear that family is at the heart of their operation.

Visiting the winery allowed me to put the pieces together and delve deeper into the rich history of Argentina's wine culture. The wines themselves were simply outstanding. From the rich, complex Malbecs to the crisp, refreshing Chardonnays, I was blown away by each bottle.

Learn more about Desiree here, and follow her on Instagram at @winonoire!

Get a wine-related movie or book pairing for your weekend.

Today’s pairing is the new Apple TV+ series, Drops of God

Alexandre Léger, Frenchman and creator of the world famous Léger Wine Guide, passes away in Tokyo, leaving behind an estranged daughter, Camille, and the world’s largest wine collection – worth $148 million. In order to claim the inheritance, Camille is tasked with competing against Léger’s protege, the young Japanese oenologist, Issei Tomine. The problem? Camille knows nothing about wine and has never even tried it before. The series, based on the best selling manga of the same name, follows the duel between the two as they take wine tasting tests to compete for ownership of Léger’s empire.

Watch the trailer here.